Es ist vermutlich das Highlight eines Jeden, den es nach Kirgistan verschlägt. Die erste Nacht in einer Jurte.
Und was gibt es auch schöneres, als auf weichen Decken liegend in den Sternenhimmel zu schauen, umgeben nur von Bergen und Schafen und Pferden und Stille?
Dem Gebrauch von Jurten liegt eine jahrtausendealte Geschichte zugrunde. Kaum anders wäre eine mobile pastorale Fernweidewirtschaft möglich gewesen.
Während der Sowjetzeit verboten, zieht es heute wieder viele Kirgisen und ihre Familien in den Monaten zwischen Mai und September in die Sommerlager, die sogenannten Dshailoos.
In ihre Einzelteile zerlegt, lässt sie sich mit dem Pferd auch in die abgelegensten Bergregionen transportieren.
Eine Jurte kann innerhalb von wenigen Stunden aufgebaut und noch schneller wieder abgebaut werden. Traditionell ist der Aufbau Frauensache und geschieht mit dem Aufstellen des Eingangs, dem bosogo, in südwestlicher Richtung. Von hier kommt nicht nur am meisten Licht, sondern auch am wenigsten Niederschlag.
Auf kirgisisch heißt sie bos uj – graues Haus. Dabei sind die von außen mit Filz bedeckten traditionellen Zelte der Nomaden von innen alles andere als grau, sondern leuchten in den schönsten Farben.
Das beginnt mit den rot gestrichenen hölzernen kerege, dem Scherengitter, das von hinten oft mit Strohmatten isoliert wird. Je nach Größe der Jurte gibt es davon zwischen vier bis zwölf. Auf das kerege gestützt biegen sich die gebogenen Dachstangen, uuk genannt. Diese stützen das Herzstück einer jeden Jurte: den Tündük. Traditionell wird er aus dem besten Holz gefertigt, von Generation zu Generation vererbt und darf niemals ausgetauscht werden. Neben der Funktion als Abzug hat er gleichzeitig auch eine symbolische Bedeutung: Es ist die Öffnung zur Welt. Und wer einmal durch einen Tündük in den endlosen Himmel geblickt hat, der wird um diese Symbolik verstehen. Bedeckt wird der Tündük von außen mit einem besonderen Teil Filz, dem tuurduk, an dem eine Zugschnur zum Öffnen und Schließen angebracht ist.
Steht das Gerüst, so wird geschmückt. Das Innere wird mit Teppichen, den sogenannten Shyrdaks, ausgelegt und die kerege mit bunten Bändern umwickelt. Oft werden vom Dach noch bunte Wollpuschel und Tüddel gehängt.
Grundsätzlich findet das gesamte gesellschaftliche Leben in einer Jurte statt. Hier wird geschlafen, gekocht und gegessen; hier wird gelebt, oft mit bis zu 10 Personen. Üblicherweise schläft man auf dem Boden auf mehreren Schichten Decken, die für die Nacht ausgelegt werden. Ein Ofen spendet Wärme.
Heute gibt es insbesondere für Touristen extra Jurten, die als reines Schlafzimmer dienen und oftmals sogar Betten haben. Für Mahlzeiten findet man sich dann in einer besonders großen Speisejurte zusammen.
In einer Jurte gelten klare Regeln. Die erste, die es zu befolgen gilt, ist die der Barfüßigkeit.
Die Schuhe werden unbedingt draußen vor dem Eingang abgestellt. Über die Schwelle sollte man bevorzugt mit dem rechten Fuß zuerst treten. Grundsätzlich sollte man sich so kurz wie möglich stehend aufhalten. Je nachdem, ob man sich dem männlichen oder dem weiblichen Geschlecht zugehörig fühlt, wendet man sich nun nach links – als Mann – oder nach rechts. In ihrer Einrichtung spiegelt sich die soziale Ordnung wider: Koch- und Haushaltsutensilien beispielsweise finden sich auf der einen, Gegenstände für das Vieh, die Jagd, etc. auf der anderen Seite.
Die optimierte Raumaufteilung und Raumausstattung sind von Nöten, sodass der begrenzte Platz bestmöglich genutzt werden kann. Jedes Familienmitglied ist Platz und Wirkungsgebiet zugewiesen.
Wer jetzt Lust bekommen hat, selber einmal in einer Jurte zu nächtigen – das ist selbstverständlich Bestandteil all unserer Reisen.
21 Comments
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